EV & Hybrid Tow Bar Buying Guide: What to Check Before You Buy
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EV & Hybrid Tow Bar Buying Guide: What to Check Before You Buy

Electric and hybrid vehicles have moved well past the “can they even tow?” question. Most can, and thanks to instant electric torque, some even do it more smoothly than the petrol SUV they replaced. But EV and hybrid towing comes with a different set of rules than a diesel Ute, and getting it wrong costs more than a fine; it can void your warranty, wreck your range on a trip, or leave you with a towbar that was never rated for what you’re pulling.

This guide walks through exactly what to check before you buy, vehicle by vehicle and step by step, so you’re not guessing.

Can Your EV or Hybrid Actually Tow?

Short answer: probably, but the number varies enormously between models, and it’s not always obvious from the spec sheet. Here’s where the most popular EVs and hybrids on Australian roads currently sit:

Vehicle Braked towing capacity Notes
Tesla Model Y Up to 1,600 kg Unbraked limit: 750 kg, max ball weight: 160 kg
Tesla Model 3 Up to 1,000 kg (unbraked cap) Official Tesla tow package available in Australia; confirm compatibility with your model year
Kia EV6 Up to 1,800 kg Increased from 1,600 kg on the updated 2025-26 model, so confirm your build date
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Around 1,600 kg Shares a platform with the EV6, similar tow rating
Kia EV9 2,500 kg Currently the highest-rated pure EV tow vehicle sold in Australia
BMW iX 2,500 kg Matches the EV9 at the top of the EV towing range
Polestar 2 1,500 kg Solid mid-range option
BYD Atto 3 750 kg Unbraked-limit territory, fine for a small trailer but not a caravan
BYD Seal / Dolphin Not yet officially rated Confirm current certification before assuming it can tow
MG4 500 kg Light duty only
Toyota RAV4 Hybrid 800 kg (2WD) / higher on AWD Older AWD models were rated to 1,500 kg, figures vary by drivetrain and model year
Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Around 1,500 kg Tow-ball limit is the real constraint, often just 160 kg, the lowest in this class

The pattern is worth noticing: pure EVs range from “barely rated” (MG4, BYD Atto 3) to genuinely tow-capable (Kia EV9, BMW iX), while hybrids and PHEVs generally sit in the middle. They’re useful for a box trailer or small camper, but rarely enough for a full-size caravan.

The number one mistake we see: buyers googling “[model name] towing capacity” and treating whatever comes up as gospel. Ratings change between model years, drivetrains, and even trim levels. Always confirm the exact figure on your vehicle’s compliance plate or with the manufacturer before you spec a towbar, not from a forum post or a comparison article (including this one).

Braked vs Unbraked: Why It Actually Matters

This trips up more buyers than anything else on this list. In Australia, if your trailer doesn’t have its own braking system, you’re capped at 750 kg regardless of what your vehicle is theoretically rated to tow. That’s the unbraked limit, and it applies across the board: car, ute, EV, or otherwise.

Above 750 kg, your trailer needs its own brakes, and depending on the weight, you may need a brake controller wired into the vehicle to operate them from the driver’s seat. This is standard fitment on most towbar installs above the unbraked threshold, and it’s not optional. Towing a braked-rated trailer without a working brake controller is both unsafe and, in most cases, illegal.

Why Towing Drains an EV’s Range Faster Than You’d Expect

This is the part that catches new EV owners off guard. Independent testing has consistently found that towing cuts an EV’s range by somewhere between 30% and 60%, depending on the height and aerodynamics of what’s behind you and the speed you’re traveling at. A caravan or boat with a tall, flat front acts like a sail. It doesn’t just add weight, it adds drag, and drag is what actually kills EV efficiency at highway speed.

Practically, that means a car with a 400 km real-world range might only manage 160–250 km while towing before you need to recharge. It’s not a fault in the vehicle; it’s just physics, but it does mean trip planning matters more with an EV tow setup than it did with a diesel wagon. Build in extra charging stops, and don’t assume your solo-driving range applies once there’s a trailer behind you.

Hybrids and PHEVs are less affected by this specific issue since the petrol engine takes over the load, but fuel use climbs sharply under tow, so expect close to double your normal consumption when towing near the vehicle’s rated maximum.

The Pre-Fit Checklist

Before you book a towbar install, work through this:

  • Confirm your exact rating: not the model-wide figure, but the number for your specific variant, drivetrain, and build date, taken from the compliance plate or the manufacturer directly.
  • Decide braked or unbraked. This determines whether you need a brake controller wired in as part of the install, not added later.
  • Check your towball weight limit separately. Some vehicles, the Outlander PHEV is a good example, have a braked capacity that looks generous on paper but a tow-ball limit low enough that a fully loaded van or camper trailer will hit that ceiling before it hits the overall weight limit. Both numbers matter.
  • Ask about EV-specific fitment. This is the step people skip. EVs and hybrids route high-voltage cabling, battery cooling lines, and sometimes charging components through parts of the chassis a standard combustion vehicle doesn’t use. A fitter who only knows petrol platforms can misjudge clearances that a fitter experienced with EVs won’t. Ask specifically whether the installer has fitted your make and model before, not just “EVs in general.”
  • Choose detachable or fixed. Detachable towbars remove cleanly when you’re not towing, keeping the rear of the vehicle’s aerodynamics and, therefore, its efficiency closer to standard. For an EV owner watching range closely, this is a genuine, not cosmetic, consideration.
  • Confirm certification. In Australia, towbars need to be rated to AS/NZS 4177 and, for the wiring harness and electrical side, ADR 62/02. If a quote doesn’t mention either, ask.
  • Get it fitted, don’t DIY it. This one’s not just a sales line. A fitted towbar affects your vehicle’s warranty, your insurance in the event of a claim, and, on an EV, your proximity to high-voltage components. It’s the one step on this list where the cost of getting it wrong is genuinely high.

EV & Hybrid Towbar Fitting in Sydney

Bars N Racks has been supplying and professionally fitting towbars and roof racks across Sydney’s Northern Beaches for more than 40 years.

We offer a wide range of towbar, roof rack and vehicle fitment solutions for cars, SUVs, utes, EVs, hybrids and more.

From choosing the right setup for your vehicle to professional installation and fitment, our team helps make sure everything is fitted correctly and ready to use.

With decades of experience, Bars N Racks provides quality products, expert fitment and practical advice for all your towing and carrying needs.

Ready to get started?

Get a Free, Model-Specific Quote →

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I put a tow bar on an electric or hybrid car in Australia?

Yes. Most EVs and hybrids sold in Australia are rated to tow, though the capacity varies enormously by model, from as little as 500 kg (MG4) to 2,500 kg (Kia EV9, BMW iX). Always confirm the exact figure for your specific variant on the compliance plate before assuming a general “model” rating applies to your car.

What’s the difference between braked and unbraked towing capacity?

Unbraked capacity is capped at 750 kg under Australian standards (AS/NZS 4177) regardless of what your vehicle could theoretically tow. Above that, the trailer needs its own brakes, and depending on weight, a brake controller wired into the vehicle to operate them.

How much range will I lose towing with an EV?

Independent testing shows a typical range reduction of 30–60%, depending on the height and aerodynamics of the trailer and your driving speed. A tall caravan at highway speed sits at the higher end of that range; a small, low box trailer sits at the lower end.

Do I need a brake controller for my trailer?

If your trailer is rated above 750 kg or fitted with electric brakes, yes. A brake controller lets you operate the trailer brakes smoothly from the driver’s seat. This is normally wired in as part of the towbar installation rather than added afterwards.

Is fitting a tow bar to an EV different from fitting one to a petrol car?

Yes. EVs and hybrids route high-voltage cabling and battery cooling lines through parts of the chassis a combustion vehicle doesn’t use, so fitment needs to account for that. It’s worth asking an installer directly whether they’ve fitted your specific make and model before, not just “EVs in general.”

How much does it cost to get a tow bar fitted in Sydney?

Cost depends on the vehicle, the towbar class required, and whether a brake controller needs to be wired in. The most accurate way to get a figure is a free, model-specific quote rather than a general price list, since EV and hybrid fitment can vary significantly between models.

Do Bars N Racks fit tow bars for EVs and hybrids, not just Teslas?

Yes. While the current EV and hybrid page focuses on Tesla, Bars N Racks fits tow bars across the wider range of EVs, hybrids, and PHEVs on Australian roads, including popular models like the Outlander PHEV and RAV4 Hybrid. If you’re not sure whether your vehicle is covered, a quick chat or a free quote will confirm it.

Does Bars N Racks offer mobile fitment for EV or hybrid towbars?

Mobile fitment through Bars N Racks is currently trade only, so it’s not available for retail EV or hybrid customers. If you’re buying for personal use, towbar fitting is done at the Brookvale workshop instead.